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Retirement income

Which account should you draw from first?

What order should I withdraw from my retirement accounts?

The conventional sequence is taxable accounts first, then tax-deferred, then Roth. It is a reasonable default, but it frequently leaves money on the table. Often, a better approach fills lower tax brackets deliberately each year, often drawing from several account types at once, rather than emptying one before touching the next.

By Paul Spangler, CFP®, MBA, Series 65Updated Last reviewed

The short version

  • Withdrawal order affects lifetime tax paid, and the difference across a thirty-year retirement can be substantial.
  • Emptying taxable accounts first can produce very low income years followed by very high ones once required distributions begin.
  • Roth assets have no required minimum distributions during the original owner's lifetime, which makes them the most flexible dollars in a portfolio.
  • Taxable accounts receive a step-up in cost basis at death, which affects whether spending them first is optimal.

Why the conventional order exists

The logic is straightforward: spend the accounts with the least tax advantage first, so the tax-advantaged accounts keep compounding for longer. Taxable accounts generate tax annually whether or not you touch them, so drawing them down first is efficient in isolation.

For a household with modest balances and a simple tax picture, that reasoning holds up well enough. The problems appear as balances grow.

Where the conventional order goes wrong

Spending only taxable assets early produces artificially low taxable income in the years right after retirement, often the lowest brackets you will ever occupy. Those brackets go unused. Then required distributions begin, the tax-deferred balance has grown untouched for a decade, and income jumps into higher brackets permanently.

You end up paying low rates on nothing and high rates on everything, which is the opposite of what you want. The larger the tax-deferred balance, the more expensive this pattern becomes.

What bracket management looks like instead

The alternative is to decide each year what taxable income you want to report, then source withdrawals to hit that number. In practice that often means:

  • Drawing enough from tax-deferred accounts to fill a target bracket, even in years you do not need the money
  • Converting to Roth for any headroom left in that bracket after spending needs are met
  • Using taxable accounts and Roth assets to fund the rest of your spending without adding taxable income
  • Watching the thresholds that create cliffs: Medicare IRMAA tiers, the capital gains rate breakpoints, taxation of Social Security

The factors that change the answer

Charitable intent changes it: qualified charitable distributions let you satisfy required distributions without the income appearing on your return.

Estate plans change it. Taxable assets receive a step-up in basis at death and tax-deferred assets do not, which argues for spending tax-deferred money and leaving taxable assets to heirs, which is the reverse of the conventional order.

And a surviving spouse eventually files as single, at compressed brackets. Couples with a large tax-deferred balance and a significant age or health difference often benefit from converting more aggressively while both are alive.

Questions

Follow-ups we get asked.

Usually, but not always. Roth dollars are the most flexible you have because they add nothing to taxable income, which makes them useful for one-off large expenses in a year you are already near a threshold. Preserving them is a good default, not a rule.

Less, but it still matters at the margins: for the taxation of Social Security, for Medicare surcharges, and for what your heirs eventually receive. Genuinely flat income across a thirty-year retirement is also rarer than people expect.

They remove your discretion. Once RMDs begin you must take a calculated amount from tax-deferred accounts whether you need it or not, and it is taxed as ordinary income. Everything done before that point is partly about controlling how large that forced withdrawal becomes.

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Where this leads

Your version of this has numbers in it.

General guidance gets you to the right question. Whether the answer applies to you depends on your balances, your brackets, and your timeline. That is a conversation, and the first one costs nothing.

This article is general educational information, current as of July 29, 2026. It is not personalized investment, tax, or legal advice, and it does not take into account any individual's circumstances. Tax and benefit rules change; verify current rules against official sources before acting. TradeWinds does not provide tax or legal advice.